Ancient Chromophores and Auxiliaries: Phrygian Colorants from Tumulus MM at Gordion, Turkey, ca 740 BCE

A groundbreaking analysis of Phrygian textiles from Tumulus MM at Gordion, Turkey (ca 740 BCE), reveals the sophisticated use of organic and inorganic colorants. Using advanced techniques like DART-MS, researchers identified indigo-related compounds, alizarin, purpurin, xanthopurpurin, lucidin, and other madder derivatives, confirming the Phrygians' mastery in dyeing. The study also detected goethite (yellow ochre) as a chromophore, with preliminary evidence suggesting a controlled redox reaction may have been used. This research sheds light on ancient textile production techniques and the versatility of Phrygian colorists, comparable to Anatolian pile carpets.

Ballard, M., Newsome, A., Simpson, E., & Burke, B. (2023). Ancient Chromophores and Auxiliaries: Phrygian Colorants from Tumulus MM at Gordion, Turkey, ca 740 BCE. Heritage, 6(2), 2220–2246. https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage6020118