Publications
Cistercian Monks and the Birth of Bonum Vinum in Medieval Burgundy
Cistercian monks in medieval Burgundy pioneered the concept of 'bonum vinum'—high-quality wine—by integrating sensory experience, agricultural innovation, and spiritual practice. They developed advanced winemaking techniques, including parcel-by-parcel vinification and long-term aging systems using large wooden presses (torcular) and temperature-controlled cellars, while meticulously observing microclimates and terroir to define distinct vineyard boundaries like the Clos de Vougeot. This study reinterprets their contributions as both a historical milestone in winemaking and an embodiment of spiritual discipline, rooted in direct engagement with soil and climate.
Methodological considerations on local temperature zoning – where to install sensors, how many sensors and what interpolation method could be used? A case study in Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle Musigny (Bourgogne, France)
A critical sensor density threshold of at least 5 sensors per km² (40 sensors) was identified to ensure reliable local temperature zoning in vineyards, with Regression-Kriging outperforming other methods like Random Forest for high-density systems. The study, conducted over 18 months in Burgundy's Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle Musigny regions using 112 grape-cluster-level sensors, revealed that interpolation accuracy for maximum temperatures (Tmax) is significantly lower than for minimum temperatures (Tmin), suggesting micro-scale factors override topographical signals at high planting densities. While 40–60 sensors suffice for mapping frost-related indices, higher densities or additional covariates are needed for heat stress and thermal accumulation indices.
Développement de baies entières de Pinot Noir sur différents Climats de Bourgogne sous le prisme de leur métabolisme.
A significant discovery in viticulture reveals that millésime (year-to-year variations) has a dominant impact on the development and composition of Pinot Noir grapes, particularly influencing tartrate concentration by over 2.5 times more in 2022 compared to 2023 due to pre-season drought stress. This study, conducted across five Burgundy vineyards during two consecutive years with above-average temperatures, identified that parcel-specific factors and rootstocks play crucial roles in sugar accumulation and grape development stages, respectively. The research also highlighted a higher accumulation of acids and anthocyanins in 2022, while 2023 showed increased monomeric catechins. Transcriptomic data supported these findings, suggesting a strong developmental sequence that explains most variability. Predictive modeling indicated that drought stress enhances terroir expression, while non-stress conditions lead to more predictable grape development. This study underscores the complex interplay between environmental factors and grape metabolism, offering insights for sustainable viticulture in UNESCO-listed regions.
Gevrey-Chambertin : les enjeux d’un territoire vitivinicole locale à l’échelle mondiale
Gevrey-Chambertin, a small but globally renowned wine town near Dijon, exemplifies the unique challenges and opportunities faced by UNESCO-listed vitivinicole territories. This study highlights how local terroir characteristics, cultural heritage, and global market demands intersect to shape the identity and sustainability of such sites. By analyzing Gevrey-Chambertin's vineyard landscape—part of the broader Burgundy wine region inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site—the research explores the delicate balance between preserving traditional viticultural practices and adapting to international standards. The approach combines spatial analysis, historical documentation, and socioeconomic assessments to uncover how this territory navigates its dual role as both a local economic hub and a globally significant cultural asset.
Minerality in Wine: Textual Analysis of Chablis Premier Cru Tasting Notes
A decline in the term 'minerality' to describe Chablis Premier Cru wines, alongside an increase in 'salinity,' 'acidity,' and other descriptors, suggests shifting consumer preferences or sensory experiences. Analysis of 16,542 tasting notes from 2003 to 2022 revealed that minerality was negatively correlated with growing season temperature and sunshine hours, as well as vineyard aspect (South/South-West), but not with Kimmeridgian soil type. This indicates that soils are less influential in minerality than previously thought, while climate factors play a significant role. The study also found that consumers were more likely to associate minerality with stony sensations rather than saline or smoky ones. These trends may reflect broader shifts in wine terminology or the impact of climate change on wine characteristics.
Tracing Terroir(s): the role of maps, guidebooks, and regional products in constructing the French gastronomic imaginary
The concept of terroir, linking regional products with place, played a pivotal role in constructing France's culinary identity during the inter-war period. This study reveals how culinary guidebooks, gastronomic maps, and authenticity labels collectively shaped a shared French gastronomic imaginary, fostering cultural unity and economic growth amid socio-economic upheaval. By analyzing these three components, the research traces their representative power in both symbolic and literal senses, contributing to a sense of belonging for citizens and tourists alike. The findings also explore how terroir concepts are being adapted today to reflect a changing nation.
Untargeted Metabolomics Discriminates Grapes and Wines from Two Syrah Vineyards Located in the Same Wine Region
A key finding from this study is the identification of chrysanthemin, an anthocyanin, as a putative biomarker distinguishing Syrah wines from two vineyards within the same terroir. Using untargeted metabolomics and ultra-high-resolution liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (UHPLC-Q-ToF-MS/MS), researchers analyzed over 40 compounds, including phenolic compounds and organic acids, across grapes, must, and wine samples. The study revealed that while metabolic profiles evolved similarly during fermentation, site-specific differences in metabolite intensity were observed, particularly for chrysanthemin. Sensory analysis further indicated that wines from one terroir scored higher in quality. This research underscores the potential of metabolomics to assess grape and wine quality, as well as its association with terroir, offering insights into the complex interplay between vineyard conditions and sensory properties.
Wine and France: A Brief History
France's viticultural history, spanning over two millennia, reveals a dynamic interplay between trade, innovation, and environmental challenges. The earliest evidence of winemaking dates to 425 BCE in Southern France, with Roman influence accelerating its spread. Post-Roman decline saw viticulture shrink, but the rise of cities and trade in the Middle Ages revived it, particularly in Burgundy and Champagne under monastic control. Scientific advancements post-Renaissance, including fermentation understanding and wine classification (e.g., 1855 Bordeaux ranking), marked a turning point. However, the late 19th century brought catastrophic setbacks like phylloxera, forcing France to adapt through strict quality controls. The study highlights how global warming now poses the next major threat to this heritage, underscoring the fragility of France's viticultural legacy.
Climats and the crafting of heritage value in Burgundy terroir
Burgundy's 'climats'—distinct vineyard parcels—have emerged as a globally recognized cultural landscape, reflecting a strategic heritagisation process that elevates Burgundy wines and vineyards in the competitive global market. This recognition, achieved in 2015, has transformed the region's economic value by shifting away from traditional terroir narratives toward a new visual discourse centered on climats. The study analyzes how local elites, producers, and cultural mediators craft these values through storytelling, highlighting paradoxes of globalization such as tension between artisanal labor, privileged consumption, and corporate ownership. By examining strategies deployed in vineyards and hospitality, the research illustrates the dialectics of value creation within capitalism, offering insights into how heritage narratives shape economic and cultural landscapes.
The search for virtue
A comparative analysis of the UNESCO World Heritage Site 'Les Climats, terroirs of Burgundy' reveals that its distinctive model can serve as a blueprint for integrating sustainability into the preservation and development of agricultural landscapes. This study demonstrates how the heritisation of agricultural lands acts as a catalyst for social, cultural, economic, and educational sustainability, offering replicable strategies for other agricultural territories. It challenges traditional theoretical frameworks by incorporating empirical evidence from nearly three decades of practice and linking economic resources with long-term sustainability goals.
Geomorphological system and landscape coevolution in Mercurey (Burgundy, France): hypothesis of an early soil maintenance strategy
Research in the Mercurey terroir of Burgundy reveals an early soil maintenance strategy linked to vine cultivation. The study identifies two distinct phases of sediment deposition over 2,800 years: one dominated by coarse colluvium from solifluction flows (beginning around 800 cal. BC) and another characterized by fine sedimentation and high vine charcoal concentration post-1400 cal. AD. This shift suggests that medieval wine-growing practices, including the construction of agricultural infrastructures, disrupted sediment flow, retaining coarser materials on hillslopes and reducing erosion in valley bottoms. The findings were derived from sedimentary deposit analysis and pedoanthracological studies, offering insights into the coevolution of geomorphic dynamics and human land use in UNESCO-listed Burgundian landscapes.
Impact of vineyard topography on the quality of Chablis wine
No strong evidence supports the influence of vineyard topography on Chablis wine quality, though slope gradient may play a subtle role. This study analyzed topographic data from Chablis' 'Climats' using digital elevation models and correlated it with 6,850 wine scores from CellarTracker. While results suggest topography's impact is minimal within certain thresholds, limitations prevented deeper analysis. The findings imply skilled winemaking can produce high-quality wine regardless of location, provided other factors like soil and climate are optimal.
Les Climats en Bourgogne : enjeux et évolutions d’un paysage viticole devenu patrimoine culturel
Burgundy's Climats, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, face significant challenges due to climate change and modern viticultural practices. This study reveals that while these unique terroirs retain their cultural significance, they are experiencing rapid transformations in landscape structure and vineyard management. Researchers analyzed historical data and current practices to assess the evolution of these landscapes, highlighting the tension between preserving traditional methods and adapting to environmental pressures. The findings underscore the need for sustainable strategies to maintain both the ecological integrity and cultural heritage of these viticultural regions.
Sensitivity of Grapevine Soil–Water Balance to Rainfall Spatial Variability at Local Scale Level
Rainfall spatial variability at local scales significantly impacts grapevine water status, potentially altering it by up to 50% compared to regional averages. A dense network of 45 rain-gauges deployed over a 28 km² area in Burgundy vineyards (France) captured rainfall data from 2014 to 2016, which was used to model grapevine water balance under varying soil water holding capacities (50 mm and 150 mm). The study found that local rainfall variability caused substantial variations in the water deficit stress index (WDSI), indicating that sparse rainfall networks may lead to inaccurate water management practices, such as irrigation or cover-crop strategies. This highlights the need for fine-scale rainfall data to optimize agricultural practices in rainfed systems.
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